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Fine Pearls
“Paris was the leading market for fine pearls until the 1920s. After a century of being forgotten at the back of drawers, it feels quite magical to me to see these pearls selling for sky-high prices.”
Philippine Dupré la Tour - Certified Expert in Fine Jewelry and Pearls with the French Union of Experts
Aguttes is the only auction house in Europe with a specialized department dedicated to the appraisal, evaluation, and sale of natural fine pearls, offering comprehensive and personalized service.
Fine Pearl Auctions: One of the Most Sought-After Materials in the Jewelry Market
Fine pearls, also known as natural pearls, are a timeless symbol of luxury and refinement. Unlike cultured pearls, they form naturaly when a foreign object enters a mollusk, and this natural process gives them a unique rarity and prestige: in response, the mollusk coats this irritant with successive layers of nacre, giving rise to a pearl. This process can take several years and produces an entirely natural pearl, often asymmetrical or uniquely shaped, unlike cultured pearls, which are generally uniform and round. Their beauty, luster, and unpredictable origin make them highly coveted gems among collectors and jewelry enthusiasts. Historically, natural pearls have been prized for millennia by various civilizations. The Roman, Egyptian, and Chinese civilizations valued these jewels of the sea. In ancient times, pearls were often more valuable than gemstones such as diamonds, due to their rarity and the difficulty of obtaining them. Pearl diving was a risky trade that never guaranteed success, which only added to their value. Introduced to the market in the early 20th century by Kokichi Mikimoto, cultured pearls are the result of human intervention, during which a nucleus is deliberately inserted into the oyster or mollusk. Quickly produced on a large scale, cultured pearls made pearls accessible to a wider audience. The market for natural pearls shrank significantly, and the jewelry set with them lay dormant at the bottom of jewelry boxes.
Aguttes, a specialist in the appraisal and sale of fine pearls
In 2010, Philippine Dupré la Tour turned her attention to natural pearls, known as fine pearls, to showcase their beauty. She discovered the potential of a niche market where, in her view, expertise and knowledge were lacking compared to what they had been in Paris a century earlier. Today, fine pearls are once again highly sought after, and their rarity makes them coveted gems that can fetch significant prices. Appraising them is a challenging specialty, as the criteria for evaluating a pearl are numerous and complex. The pearl’s diameter, shape, and the purity of its surface are the easiest to assess. Color, luster, and orient are three very different and much more subjective criteria, as is the uniformity of the pearls that make up a necklace.
Director and expert of the Jewelry departments, Philippine Dupré la Tour has been a certified expert in Jewelry and Fine Pearls with the French Union of Experts (UFE) since 2023. Supported for the past 10 years by her specialists Adeline Juguet and Eleonore des Beauvais, she conduct free and confidential appraisals by appointment of your pearl-adorned jewelry to authenticate its origin and reveal the most beautiful fine pearls; tiaras, as well as necklaces, brooches, earrings set with round or teardrop-shaped pearls, bracelets, rings…
Exceptional fine pearls: the most sought-after varieties in the luxury market
Fine pearls are all the rage among collectors and buyers in the luxury sector. Auctions feature necklaces and pieces set with natural pearls from prestigious sources, sometimes selling spectacular sums. Demand for these gems is driven not only by their rarity but also by customers’ appreciation for exceptional items steeped in history. Certain fine pearls are particularly sought-after and sold for record prices at auctions or on the luxury market.
Buy fine pearls at Aguttes
Over the years, we have built a relationship of trust and a unique bond with these international buyers. Our auctions offer a wide selection of necklaces, rings, bracelets, and other jewelry adorned with these precious pearls. Our auctions enjoy high visibility among market participants (enthusiasts, collectors, and professionals from around the world...), ensuring strong visibility for sellers. The Fine Jewelry & Pearls department meets the exacting standards of highly specialized buyers, thereby achieving the best results for its sellers.
Reach international buyers through our promotional program.
The promotional program leverages modern tools, and a trusted network built over many years between the auction house, collectors, and professionals. The auction house possesses a unique strength in communication and provides sellers with modern, targeted tools for effective international promotion. Our specialists and experts are at your disposal to appraise your items and provide you with professional expertise as well as advice on sales or investment. They travel throughout France and Europe in collaboration with our regional offices to conduct appraisals and evaluations.
Our Fine Pearls department organizes four auctions in Paris each year.
Discover our auction calendar and our offices.
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Directeur général, Directeur du pôle Luxe & Art de vivre
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Our specialists cover France and the whole of Europe. Contact us to organise a valuation at your home
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