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Diamond

Diamond sales are highly significant at auction.

Solitaire diamonds in antique or modern cuts, as well as diamonds on rings, brooches, bracelets, and necklaces, are featured at Aguttes during our many jewelry auctions, including our four annual cataloged sales.

The valuation conducted by Philippine Dupré la Tour allows you to know the minimum value of your diamond. The auction process then brings buyers into competition to secure the best possible price for the entrusted piece. Very often, we provide potential buyers with a certificate issued by an independent laboratory to determine all the characteristics of the diamond. This analysis provides important details that help achieve the best possible price. Last December, this process helped us identify a 5.51-carat Golconda diamond, which we auctioned for €130,000 including tax.

Until the 17th century, diamonds came from mines in India, particularly from the Golconda region, reputed to hold the most beautiful diamonds in the world. According to scientific experts, diamonds from this region have flawless chemical purity and perfect atomic structure. In 1698, the English explorer and governor Thomas Pitt brought the "Regent Diamond" to Europe from the Golconda mines. In 1706, it was cut to best reveal its brilliance, and at the time, it was considered the most perfect gemstone, with unmatched purity and fire. Worn by Louis XV, Louis XVI, Charles X, Napoleon I, Napoleon III, and others, the Regent Diamond is now an invaluable historic gem displayed in the Louvre as a work of art. Today, it is extremely rare to find a Golconda diamond on the market.

After the exhaustion of Indian mines, Brazil and South Africa became the primary suppliers of diamonds. Over time, new deposits emerged around the world: in Australia, Canada, and the United States, supporting the increasing demand for diamonds in jewelry.

In the early 20th century, following the colorful jewelry of the 1920s, high jewelry turned its attention to monochrome pieces in the 1930s. This was the era of "white jewelry", where new cutting techniques for diamonds were developed, leading to the brilliant cut, which maximizes the stone’s brilliance, and the baguette cut, a costly technique that sacrifices material for a distinct effect. These various cuts, assembled on platinum settings, formed geometric compositions and abstract patterns that revealed the diamond's brilliance. These highly technical pieces from the period, often crafted by the finest French workshops, are highly sought after at auction today.

Today, diamonds are evaluated according to the 4Cs of quality:

  • Color: The most sought-after diamond color is "white," or colorless, classified as D. The letters that follow indicate increasing yellow or tint in the stone.

  • Clarity: This refers to the presence or absence of inclusions (foreign materials) on the surface or inside the gem. A purity scale classifies diamonds from flawless to those with significant inclusions visible to the naked eye. Internal inclusions are more problematic than surface inclusions, which can sometimes be removed by polishing.

  • Cut: A diamond's cut, crafted by a gem cutter, is designed to reveal its brilliance. The brilliant cut optimizes a diamond's shine the most.

  • Carat weight: This is an exponential value for diamonds, as the heavier the diamond, the rarer and more expensive it becomes.

These criteria are carefully considered when determining a diamond’s value, which is what will be offered during your first appraisal appointment with our expert, Philippine Dupré la Tour.

Our specialists are available to evaluate your precious and semi-precious stones, jewelry, bracelets, rings, necklaces, vintage creations, or signed pieces set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and fine pearls. They offer free and confidential appraisals by appointment. The team travels throughout France and to the house’s representative offices.

Feel free to contact us to discuss the purchase or sale of a piece of jewelry.