If there's one signature that unanimously captivates all watch enthusiasts, it's undoubtedly Cartier. From historical pieces to vintage watches or "pre-loved" timepieces, the French jeweler continues to set records at auctions, both for antique objects and modern timepieces. For 170 years, Cartier watchmaking has ceaselessly fascinated amateurs and collectors alike. Today, some pieces have become essential collector's items. Through a selection of pieces curated by Claire Hofmann, head of the Collection Watches department, relive the excitement of our recent auctions!

THE HISTORICAL PIECES
THE IMPERIAL EGG, A TRIBUTE TO FABERGÉ STYLE

In the history of watchmaking, Cartier has asserted itself as the "watchmaker of shapes." This mythical house, founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, managed to captivate an international clientele during the Belle Époque. With its creations, both technical and aesthetic, Cartier became the watchmaker of the greatest royal and imperial courts. In 1907, the French jeweler was expressly appointed the "official supplier" to the court of Tsar Nicholas II, and Cartier established itself in St. Petersburg, where the enameled style of Carl Fabergé made a sensation.
Louis Cartier was inspired by Fabergé's eggs and developed a production of unique and atypical clock pieces that borrowed the aesthetic codes of the jeweler. It was with these objects of enamel and ornamental stones that the brand definitively seduced the Russian aristocracy and haute bourgeoisie. One of the most remarkable achievements of this period was sold for €38,350 under the hammer of Me Claude Aguttes on March 26th. Stamped with the hallmark of Henri Dubret, one of the most famous Art Nouveau jewelers, this vermeil, amethyst, and enamel rotating disc clock was a true rediscovery.
Few pieces of this quality were executed, and rare are the examples that have stood the test of time. If this "Imperial Egg" achieved such a beautiful result, it is because it is a museum piece. In fact, a similar egg, belonging to the wealthy American heiress Anna Gould, is listed in the reference book "Cartier, Objets d'Exceptions" co-written by Olivier Bachet and Alain Cartier.


CARTIER
« Œuf » Clock
Crica 1905
Sold 38 300 €

TANK, ICONIC TIMEPIECE 
THE EMBLEMATIC WATCH

Introduced in 1917 into Cartier's collections, the Tank is a watch as timeless as it is iconic. For over a century, this model has been tirelessly reimagined and offered in a multitude of designs: Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Chinoise, Tank Basculante, Tank Américaine, Tank Française, Tank Divan, Tank Asymétrique... But of all these variations, the Tank Cintrée remains one of the most fantastic versions, as it is the first reinterpretation in a long series.
Launched in 1921, its large case with curved lines, designed to fit the shape of the wrist, makes it a very modern watch. With this design "ahead of its time", Cartier attracted a new male clientele, and the Tank Cintrée became established during the Roaring Twenties as "the watch of gentlemen".
On December 12, 2023, Aguttes presented at auction a specimen of this cult model crafted in platinum, the preferred material of Louis Cartier. Sold for €148,000, this Tank sparked an international bidding battle and achieved one of the most impressive results ever recorded in France for an "Art Deco" model.


CARTIER
Tank Cintrée No. 21376 / 04832 / 27642
Circa 1930 / 1950
Sold 148 000 €

THE ICONIC MODELS
THE REVIVAL OF THE 1980s

Panther, the Timeless Feminine
Launched in 1983, the Panther watch remains in Cartier's catalog and is even one of the brand's best-sellers. Whether in yellow gold, steel, or set with diamonds, it's a timeless timepiece that can definitely be described as an "absolute faultless"! Both elegant, with its flat-link bracelet, and understated with its cushion-shaped case, it's a cross-generational timepiece. While the Panther is one of the trendiest watches of the moment, vintage models are particularly sought after today and can easily sell for double or triple their auction estimate.

CARTIER
Panthère N° 8669114562
Circa 1980
Sold 7 800 €

CARTIER
Panthère N° 83949024596
Circa 1980
Sold 3 400 €

Pasha, Sportive & Elegance
The first waterproof model produced by Cartier, the Pasha owes its name to one of the most important clients of the French house in the 1930s: the Pasha of Marrakech. This watch with its exuberant style was designed by Gerald Genta, and that's obviously what makes it a cult watch. After designing the Royal Oak in 1972 for Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus in 1976 for Patek Philippe, Genta created this unique watch for Cartier, which is both sporty and elegant.


CARTIER
Pasha Réf. 1035 No. CC493136
Circa 1997
Sold 8 400 €

THE VINTAGE EUPHORIA

The Creativity of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s
Today, vintage Cartier is highly fashionable. Pieces from the 1950s, 60s, and 70s are particularly sought after for their often unconventional designs. With design studios in Paris, London, and New York, Cartier developed an infinite number of watch designs. Asymmetrical watches, barrel-shaped cases in the spirit of the seventies, or feminine models mounted on ribbon bracelets, Cartier is definitely the watchmaker of shapes.

Baignoire, French Chic
Among the most iconic models of this period, the Baignoire is an iconic piece. An embodiment of French chic, this model appeared in Cartier collections in 1958. Its oval shape makes it a watch that is both classic and non-conformist. Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider, or Jeanne Moreau made it their favorite watch, making the Baignoire as desirable as it was desired. Its unique style makes it a perfectly timeless piece, which is why mechanical models from the 1960s and 70s are particularly sought after by connoisseurs.

CARTIER
Baignoire Réf. 1703
No. 8057910
Circa 1992
Sold 7 800 €

CARTIER
No. 140688
Circa 1950
Sold 5 200 €

CARTIER
No. 781010546
Vers 1970
Montre bracelet en or
Vendue 7 200 €

Upcoming Collector's Watches auction in prepration
Tuesday, July 2nd, 2024

For any further information or to include a lot in our upcoming auctions, please contact
Claire Hofmann
+33 7 49 97 32 28 - hofmann@aguttes.com