Collector Watches
Breguet, or the art of the chronograph
On 25 March, Aguttes will be auctioning a rare 1957 chronograph by Breguet, a fine way to celebrate the 250ᵉ anniversary of this historic house under the hammer.
Breguet, or the art of the chronograph
A watchmaker who pioneered an iconic complication
Watchmaker to Louis XVI, Tsar Alexander of Russia, King George III of England and King Charles IV of Spain, Abraham-Louis Breguet revolutionised watchmaking in the late 18ᵉ and early 19ᵉ centuries. While in the history of the discipline, the invention of the chronograph is officially attributed to the French watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec in 1822, Abraham-Louis Breguet was the originator. A look back at the history of a complication that is inextricably linked with the name Breguet...
The independent second
And the beginnings of the chronograph
Around 1820, Breguet introduced a revolutionary complication, the observation second. Considered the first chronograph system, this innovation marked the original chapter in the history of the chronograph. By isolating the seconds from the hour and minute mechanisms, Abraham-Louis Breguet made it possible to operate them independently. The observation second, also known as the independent second, could be started or stopped on demand, making it possible to measure very precisely the time elapsing from a given moment. This innovation took precision watchmaking to a new level.
A member of the Académie des Sciences from 1816, Breguet continued to develop mechanisms to optimise the performance of scientific instruments and facilitate research and discoveries in the field of astronomy until the end of his life. A precursor of the modern chronograph, Breguet produced watches incorporating this complication for aviation, astronomy and the navy.
The 1950s
The golden age of the chronograph
It was in the 20ᵉ century that Breguet made the chronograph one of the emblems of its expertise, notably with the introduction of the Type XX model. Initially conceptualised for the French military air force and delivered from 1954, this watch introduced a ‘return to flight’ function that enabled the chronograph to be instantly reset and restarted with a single press. Invented by Longines in 1936, the ‘return in flight’ function was originally developed for aviators. In parallel with the production of the Type XX, Breguet manufactured several timepieces with a more refined design and style and equipped with tri-compax dials. Our example, as functional as it is elegant, is a rare example of these measuring instruments.
14-line movements
A standard of excellence
The watchmaking line was the unit of measurement used in France until the 1970s to indicate the diameter of a movement. Derived from the French inch, a unit of measurement corresponding to 27.07 mm and subdivided into 12 lines, the line is equivalent to 2.255 mm. Thus, a 14-line movement corresponds to a diameter of 31.57 cm in watchmaking. At Breguet, this size is used in particular for movements incorporating a chronograph, minute repeater or tourbillon. For chronographs produced from 1950 until the early 1960s, the 14-line movement is indisputably a standard of excellence.
Coming soon to Aguttes
Our example, which will be presented on 25 March, and whose numbering 2952 makes it possible to date its manufacture to 1957 in the archives of Breguet Montres SA, combines all the essential elements to be considered a particularly attractive collector's chronograph. The proportions of the watch and the configuration of the dial are perfectly in keeping with the period of production. Equipped with the legendary ‘return to flight’ function and an oversized case, this watch is recorded in the company's books and was sold at the time to a certain ‘M.C.’. This rare timepiece will be on display at the Aguttes auction in Neuilly-sur-Seine on 25 March.
BREGUET
Circa 1957
Chronographe bracelet oversize en acier
Some nice results at Aguttes
1 - Breguet. Savonnette pocket watch in gold with perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, chronograph and minute repeater, sold for €53,000
2 - Breguet. Type XX ‘Tropical Dial’, sold for €21,000
3 - Breguet. Bracelet watch in 18k (750) pink gold with ‘Empire’ case and subsidiary seconds, sold for €32,000
Upcoming auction
COLLECTOR'S WATCHES
Tuesday 25 March 2025 at 5.00 pm
Aguttes Neuilly
For more information or to include a lot in our next sales, please contact
Claire Hofmann - Head of Watches Department
+33 7 49 97 32 28 - hofmann@aguttes.com