MICHAEL JACKSON 

Designed in the mid-1980s, this cardigan dates from the period when Michael Jackson was cementing his global status following the success of *Thriller* (1982) and the Victory Tour (1984). Off stage, the artist favoured a more understated wardrobe, whilst retaining personalised details that immediately signalled his identity: embroidered monograms, heraldic crests and bright colours. This cardigan, based on a Christian Dior Monsieur design customised by Bill Whitten, belongs to this sophisticated ‘off-duty’ sartorial vocabulary, designed for informal appearances, private outings and backstage moments.

One of the distinctive features of Michael Jackson’s personal wardrobe during the 1980s was the recurring use of the “J” monogram, embroidered on jackets and cardigans customised by Bill Whitten. This “J” appears in numerous photographs from the period, in slightly different forms: a simple crown, laurels, and various heraldic details.

The cardigan presented here features a specific version: a golden royal crown encircling a "J", the distinctive feature of which is a horizontal bar extending from the top of the letter. This variant is not an isolated case: a contemporary archive photograph, included with the lot, shows Michael Jackson wearing a red Dior cardigan with an embroidered patch displaying exactly this same feature. This image attests to the existence of at least one item bearing this specific monogram in the artist’s wardrobe, though it does not constitute a formal photo-match of the item on offer.

Bill Whitten (1946–2006) defined Michael Jackson’s sartorial style from the late 1970s onwards: embroidered military jackets, crystal-embellished gloves, hyper-structured silhouettes. He also worked on luxury ready-to-wear pieces, which he personalised by adding bespoke embroidery and monograms. Keith Holman, of Holman Harper Designs and a former assistant to Bill Whitten, confirms that he has examined the cardigan and recognises it as matching the pieces produced in the Whitten workshop for Michael Jackson. Holman specifically describes ‘a red cardigan with a J patch embroidered on the chest, bearing a Christian Dior label and a Bill Whitten label’. This statement constitutes the main authentication document accompanying the lot.

Red wool cardigan (size M) with button fastening. Inside labels: Christian Dior Monsieur topped with ‘Bill Whitten 39L’. On the left chest, a gold-thread embroidered crest depicting a royal crown encircling the letter "J" with a horizontal bar. Classic cut with set-in sleeves and two patch pockets. Bright red colour, soft knit with slight pilling indicating genuine wear. Discreet signs of wear on the cuffs and hem, consistent with actual use.