MICHAEL JACKSON

Produced in 1995, the music video for ‘Scream’ brings together Michael Jackson and Janet Jackson in a black-and-white production with a futuristic aesthetic, considered one of the most expensive in the history of music videos, with an estimated budget of seven million dollars. The artistic direction was handled by costume designers Dennis Tompkins and Michael Bush, who developed a structured wardrobe centred on the tension of the lines and the clarity of the silhouette in motion.

In this context, Michael Jackson adopted a radically minimalist aesthetic, breaking with the visual codes of Thriller and Bad. The shirt designed by Dexter Wong fits this approach: black synthetic fabric (elastane and polyester), a fitted cut, a slightly cropped silhouette, and textured, raised cut-outs on the sleeves and shoulders, designed to interact with lighting effects during filming.

The garment shows wear consistent with intensive filming: loosening of the fabric tension, general softening of the material, and signs of wear localised in areas of friction such as the elbows. These characteristics are consistent with an older item that has been preserved over several decades, and may also correspond to a garment that has been used in a production or performance context. In the absence of a documented formal photo-match, this condition should be interpreted as material evidence of age and handling, without constituting proof of on-screen use.

The item is accompanied by a letter from Mike W. Hirsh, Stage Manager of the Victory Tour in 1984 and subsequently a member of the production team, stating that he received it at the end of filming. It is also referenced in a certificate issued by Knaisz Auctions mentioning a shirt associated with Scream and the Dexter Wong and Tompkins & Bush labels. 

The garment retains its original labels: Dexter Wong for the textile design and Tompkins & Bush for the costume workshop. This dual identification attests to a production chain consistent with the costume/designer collaboration practices observed on Michael Jackson’s productions in the mid-1990s, though it does not in itself document its final use on screen.

Black synthetic shirt (elastane and polyester), designed by Dexter Wong, with internal labels from Dexter Wong and Tompkins & Bush. Long sleeves with textured, raised cut-outs. Piece associated, by provenance and stylistic consistency, with the wardrobe of the ‘Scream’ music video (1995), though no publicly available photographic identification has been confirmed at this stage.

ADDENDUM: Bidders are advised to take note of this information before placing their bid.

This lot is the subject of a dispute raised by one of the designers, Mr Michael Bush. However, no expert report or technical details specific to this lot have been provided by him to date. Furthermore, the previous owner of the lots, Mr Richard Fossaas, has informed us in writing of a long-standing personal dispute between himself and Mr Bush, predating this sale and unrelated to this lot, as well as of Mr Bush’s systematic opposition to items from his collection bearing the label ‘Dennis Thompkins & Michael Bush’.