FROM PEARLS AND PRECIOUS STONES TO JEWELLERY CREATIONS FROM HISTORIC TO MODERN HOUSES

Auction
FROM PEARLS AND PRECIOUS STONES
TO JEWELLERY CREATIONS
FROM HISTORIC TO MODERN HOUSES

Our upcoming Jewelry & Fine Pearls auction, on 4 April, will notably showcase fine pearl necklaces and jewelry pieces by renowned houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Hermès, Frascarolo, Cartier, as well as creations by designers René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, Jean Vendome... Discover a selection of pieces that will be presented on this occasion.

ANTIQUE JEWELRY IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Ernesto Pierret (1824 - 1870) was considered one of the "first artists of Rome, immediately after Castellani, whose copies of antique jewelry are of the highest quality", according to a guide to Rome published by John Murray in 1869; Geoffrey C. Munn, ; Geoffrey C. Munn, Les bijoutiers Castellani et Giuliano, Retour à l’antique au XIX e siècle, Office du Livre, Fribourg, Éditions Vilo, Paris 1983, p.160.

PIERRET
"INTAGLIO" PENDANT
Intaglio on agate depicting a hoplite
18k gold (750)
Signed H.: approx. 7.8 cm - Wt.: 40.8 g-6
Estimate: €800 - €1,200

Dating back to the 19th century, this elegant "Garnet" necklace will also be presented at our upcoming auction.

"GARNET" NECKLACE
Old-cut diamonds and garnets
Silver (<800) and 18k gold (750)
19th century
Estimate: €4,500 - €6,500

FINE PEARLS

A selection of necklaces, earrings, rings, and brooches adorned with fine pearls - for which our house specializes - is also to be discovered in the catalog.

"FINE PEARLS" NECKLACE
String of 87 fine pearls with round brilliant-cut diamond clasp 18k gold (750)
Estimate: €50,000 - €60,000

"FINE PEARLS" NECKLACE
String of 61 fine pearls with drop
Button pearl clasp, diamonds, 18k gold (750), platinum (850)
Estimate: €30,000 - €40,000

EMERALDS

Mixing emerald, ruby, sapphire, opal, fine pearls, and diamonds, a pendant bears witness to a discreet yet fascinating part of the history of the Beys of Tunis. The Tunisian beylical regime spanned from the 18 th century until the mid-20 th century. The beys from the Husseinite dynasty, founded by Hussein Bey, were the official sovereigns of the country. The end of the French protectorate (1881 - 1956) in Tunisia marked the end of this reigning dynasty, ousted by a republican regime in 1957. According to family tradition, this imposing jewel is said to have been passed down by a bey of Tunis to the current owner's grandfather. The bee motif on the pendant symbolizes tenacity, fertility, and abundance in Berber culture. The technique of inlaying this insect reveals a great mastery of glyptic art.

"EMERALD" PENDANT
Wth an emerald cabochon, cabochons of ruby, sapphire, opal
Presumed fine pearls, rose-cut diamonds
14k gold (585)
Estimate: €30,000 - €40,000

During our auction, a ring adorned with a Colombian emerald will also be highlighted. Some Colombian emeralds exhibit an optical phenomenon called "Gota de aceite" or "oil drop," which is a testament to its quality. This phenomenon, which describes a clarity characteristic of the gem, is only found in the finest emeralds.

"EMERALD" RING
Rectangular step-cut emerald, old-cut diamonds
18k gold (750)
French workmanship
Origin: Colombia, with indication of slight clarity enhancement (oil)
Designation: "Gota de aceite"
Estimate: €20,000 - €30,000

Another piece to discover: a 19 th -century pendant adorned with a Colombian emerald from the family heirloom of Mrs. de Lenzbourg - a Swiss noble family.

"EMERALD" PENDANT
Emerald cabochon, old-cut diamonds and rose-cut diamonds
19th century
Origin: Colombia
Estimate: €25,000 - €35,000

HIGH JEWELRY HOUSES & RENOWNED DESIGNERS

Entirely paved with diamonds, a Cartier jabot pin evokes Oriental influences in the stylistic repertoire of the house. The symmetrically repeated motif is certainly inspired by Persian carpet patterns. This jewel presents an interpretation of the Persian theme that combines the stylized lotus flower of Isfahan with the geometry of a Karadja motif. While geometric shapes are a characteristic indicator of the 1930s, the certainty of this dating is confirmed by the master hallmark of Le Voyer, one of the most important collaborators of the Cartier house during this period.

CARTIER "PERSIAN"
JABOT PIN
Old-cut round diamonds, platinum (950)
Signed, numbered, master hallmark
Circa 1930
Estimate: €7,500 - €10,000

A "Torsade" ring by Suzanne Belperron, an iconic figure in the world of modern jewelry, will also be presented at the auction. Winning the first prize at the School of Fine Arts in Besançon in 1918, Suzanne Belperron began her brilliant career in 1919 alongside Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a designer. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of the late René Boivin, Madame Belperron, then co-director of the House for almost ten years, resigned, leaving behind an indelible imprint. Bernard Herz, a leading dealer in fine pearls and precious stones, who offered her to take over his company, allowed her to flourish freely. Suzanne Belperron would now count among the most fashionable creators of the roaring twenties.
Her designs revolutionized the world of adornment; her materials, volumes, and creations sometimes touched on extravagance, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if the jewelry is sometimes a bit extravagant, it remains elegant. Her creativity never exceeds the limits of good taste: therein lies the mystery of Belperron.

SUZANNE BELPERRON
"Torsade" RING
Old-cut round diamonds
18k gold (750)
Master hallmark Groené & Darde
Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Olivier Baroin, attesting that it is a creation by Suzanne Belperron between 1942 and 1945
Estimate: €10,000 - €15,000

The house of Van Cleef & Arpels holds a century of heritage in a unique savoir-faire, where each creation conveys an enchanted vision of High Jewelry. In the 1950s, it collaborated with the Georges Lenfant Workshop to create this "Chevrons" set in gold and diamonds. The finely woven work of the gold chain perfectly illustrates the excellent mastery of French jewelers and makes this set as desirable as it is timeless.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
"CHEVRONS" SET
Necklace and bracelet
Marquise and baguette-cut diamonds
18k gold (750)
Signed and numbered - Georges Lenfant hallmark
Circa 1955
Estimate: €10,000 - €25,000

We invite you to browse through the catalog of our auction to also discover jewelry from Italian houses like Frascarolo and Bulgari, Pierre Cardin, and many others!

FRASCAROLO "FOX" BRACELET
Enamel, rubies, and eight-cut diamonds
Signed
Estimate: €5,000 - €7,000

BULGARI
"INTAGLIO" RING
Intaglios on agate
Estimate: €2,500 - €3,500

PIERRE CARDIN
"FLAT" RING
Signed
Estimate: €800 - €1,200

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
"ACCORDIONIST" CLIP
Coral, round diamonds, and rubies
Signed and numbered
Estimate: €2,000 - €3,000

Upcoming auction 
Thursday 4 April 2024, at 2:30 PM.
Click here to discover all the lotstra

Exhibition by appointment
From Monday 18 March to Friday 29 March: 10:00 AM - 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM - 6:00 PM
(except weekends)
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47

Public exhibition
Tuesday 2 April and Wednesday 3 April: 11:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Thursday 4 April: 11:00 AM - 12:00 PM

For any further information or to include a lot in our auctions, please contact:
Philippine Dupré la Tour
Head of Department - Expert
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 42 - duprelatour@aguttes.com

Adeline Juguet
Specialist
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47 - juguet@aguttes.com

Éléonore des Beauvais
Specialist
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47 - desbeauvais@aguttes.com