The jabot pin finds its origins in the 18th century in Europe. Initially used as a fashion accessory for men to fasten jabots, decorative pieces of fabric worn at the front of shirts. By the 19th century, it evolved into a fashion item for both ladies and gentlemen, becoming a finely crafted jewelry accessory often adorned with gemstones, used to embellish collars and ties. The jabot pin thus became a symbol of refinement and elegance. This pin is distinctive in that it is decorated at both ends, unlike the tie pin which has only one motif.

These jewels have accompanied the evolution of fashion by adapting to the succession of aesthetic and artistic trends over the centuries. In the 19th century, small diamonds and fine pearls adorned these pins. Arrows and insects are frequent motifs from the period known as the "Belle Époque".

JABOT PIN
Old-cut diamonds
18k gold (750) and silver (<800), 19th century
Sold: €12,300

During the Art Deco period, Cartier created numerous jabot pins recognizable by their designs inspired by oriental motifs, often combining engraved emeralds, sapphires, or rubies with diamonds, coral, and onyx. Some of these exquisite jewelry pieces have been auctioned at Aguttes, such as:


CARTIER
JABOT PIN
Carved jadeite with two "Cachermire" motifs
Rose-cut and old-cut diamonds, black enamel
Sold: €31,800


CARTIER
JABOT PIN 18k white gold (750)
Adorned with an engraved emerald cabochon enhanced by ruby pearls set with a diamond
Sold: €33,800


JABOT PIN
Engraved emerald, round diamonds, rubies, onyx, and black enamel Platinum (950), Circa 1925
Sold: €97,500

In the 1930s, geometric shapes were celebrated, as perfectly illustrated by this jabot pin designed by Suzanne Belperron in platinum and stepped rock crystal, a jewel that introduced forms of modern jewelry.


Suzanne Belperron,
Jabot pin «motifs géométriques»
Rock crystal, platinum (850). Circa 1930
Sold: €15,600

Nowadays, jabot pins, refined and discreet jewels with timeless beauty, are easily worn on a suit jacket. In the upcoming auction on March 27th, we will present two jabot pins with distinct styles. On one hand, a "belle époque" jabot pin features a trilobed motif adorned with pearls and diamonds. On the other hand, a Cartier diamond jabot pin from the Art Deco period reveals a design that reminds us of certain Persian influences through the choice of a geometric and vegetal motif, reminiscent of Oriental tapestries.


CARTIER
'PERSIAN' JABOT PIN
Circa 1930
On sale on Thursday 4 April 2024

Upcoming Jewelry & fine pearls auction 
Thursday 4 April 2024 at 2.30pm

For more information or to include a lot in our upcoming auctions, please contact:
Philippine Dupré la Tour
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 42
duprelatour@aguttes.com