"The sale that took place on Thursday 6 July 2023 was an emotional moment for us, but above all for many of the sellers in the room. I'm delighted to be able to share this experience and the success that goes with it with them. This result was made possible by a very dynamic international customer base. In fact, 90% of the total of €2,090,000 was sold abroad."
Philippine Dupré la Tour, jewellery expert

On 6 July 2023, Aguttes' Jewellery department held its second sale of the 2023 half-year. The sale achieved a result of €2,090,000. The jewels signed by Place Vendôme stood out from the crowd, generating several major bidding battles: Chaumet (lot 47), Cartier (lot 93 ) and Van Cleef & Arpels (lot 66 ), while more than 90% of the lots from the Italian collection were sold.

Top 5 of this sale
1. Lot 47 - Chaumet, "Ruban" bracelet - €140,400
2. Lot 93 - Cartier, "Chimères" Bracelet - €140 400
3. Lot 90 - Van Cleef & Arpels, "Emerald" Ring - €85 800
4. Lot 66 - Van Cleef & Arpels, Transformation Set - €80 600
5. Lot 76 - "Emerald Cut Diamond" Ring - €79,300

This Art Deco bracelet (lot 47), dated 1930 by Chaumet, fetched €140,400. At the time, Chaumet was already known for its excellence in the Art Deco style, having made a name for itself at the 1925 Universal Exhibition. The design of this piece is representative of this creative freedom, notably through the choice of cylinder-cut emeralds and their gadrooned engraving. This unique shape reflects the light and highlights the presence of the emeralds among the diamonds on the bracelet. The black enamel applied to the end of each of these cylinders, characteristic of the Art Deco period, also shows that Chaumet wanted to express itself fully in this area. This elegant bracelet was created by Chaumet to be presented in boutiques to the amazement of customers who were able to admire it in shop windows in Paris, Deauville or Cannes. Almost a century after its creation, this bracelet has lost none of its superb modernity.

Lot 47 - "RUBAN" BRACELET, engraved emeralds, round diamonds, black enamel Platinum (950), 18k (750) gold
Chaumet hallmark - Unsigned   L.: approx. 17.5 cm - W.: approx. 1.3 cm - Pb. Weight: 48.3 g
Accompanied by a Chaumet certificate dating this jewel, according to archives, to 1930.
Result: €140,400

Tied with the "Ruban" bracelet, this "Chimères" bracelet (lot 93) also far exceeded its estimate, fetching €140,400. The design of this jewel reflects the identity of Cartier, known for its panther bracelets. Rigid, it features two chimera heads facing each other and pivoting. As early as the 1920s, Cartier drew its inspiration from Indian bracelets. Drawings by the designer Charles Jacqueau for Cartier show the creation, in 1928, of a bracelet with dragon heads, similar in design to a traditional Jaipur bracelet. Cartier, which drew much of its inspiration from Oriental art, used these motifs throughout the Art Deco period. As head of design at Cartier, Jeanne Toussaint preserved the spirit and structure, while diversifying the look of this rigid chimera bracelet throughout the 20th century.

Lot 93 - CARTIER, "CHIMÈRES" BRACELET Ruby, diamonds, 18k (750) gold
Signed and numbered - Workshop hallmark L.: 16 cm approx. 58 g
Price: €140,000

Italian collection of 21 pieces of jewellery

This set (lots 50 to 72), which included jewellery by French, Italian and American designers such as Bulgari, Mauboussin, David Webb, Cartier, Codognato, Van Cleef & Arpels and Sterlé, fetched €515,580, and one of its pieces was one of the top five sold at this auction. This was the Van Cleef & Arpels set, comprising two bracelets and an important brooch (lot 66), which fetched €80,600. The two bracelets can also be worn as a necklace with the brooch, which becomes a pendant.

On discovering this collection, jewellery expert Philippine Dupré la Tour immediately noted the coherent yet singular character of the ensemble. The collector, an Italian with assured taste, set her sights on colourful creations from different eras. These pieces, carefully selected over the decades, all have a distinctive style, and reveal the bold personality of their owner, combining finesse and character. Several pieces of jewellery also stood out for their monumentality, including an important "Codognato de Venise" clip (lot 59). This brooch drew strong bids, fetching €46,800 and doubling its high estimate.

Lot 66 - VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, SET OF TWO BRACELETS AND A LARGE BROCHET
Cabochon rubies, cabochon sapphires, cabochon emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds 18k (750) gold
Signed and numbered - Case L. bracelet: approx. 20 cm - L. brooch: approx. 6 cm Total weight: 139.1 gr
Result: €80,600.

Founded in 1866, Codognato is a famous Venetian jeweller renowned for its bold, surreal designs, worn by such famous figures as the Duchess of Windsor and members of the Italian royal family. A loyal customer, Gabrielle Chanel bought many pieces of jewellery for her personal collection up until the 1950s, and among her famous strings of pearls was a very pale jade necklace acquired from Codognato.

Lot 59 - CODOGNATO, IMPORTANT "CODOGNATO DE VENISE" CLIP
Engraved emerald, carved ebony, amber and brilliant-cut diamonds; 18k (750) gold, 850 platinum, Signed, H.: 10.5 cm approx - Pb. 106.3 g
Accompanied by a period document from Codognato attesting that this jewel was made for Gabrielle Chanel.
Result: €46,800

The eye never ceases to wonder as it moves from one piece to the next in this Italian collection. Each of these pieces, steeped in history and affection, illustrates the style of a fine jewellery house, according to the influences of the moment, from the 1930s to the 1970s. A rare double provenance, Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, which illustrates both New York and the inter-war period, fetched €72,800. A Mauboussin certificate of authenticity, drawn up by Marguerite de Cerval, accompanies this cuff bracelet (lot 57) set with rubies and diamonds and engraved Reflection.

Lot 57 - TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN, IMPORTANT MANCHETTE BRACELET
Ruby cabochons, brilliant-cut diamonds, 14k (585) gold, 850 platinum
Unsigned - Engraved Reflection - Circa 1938, Dim. bracelet: 14.5 cm approx. - Pb. 103.3 g
Accompanied by a Mauboussin certificate of authenticity issued by Marguerite de Cerval.
Result: €72,800

Click here to consult all the results.

For further information please contact

Philippine Dupré la Tour

+33 (0)1 41 92 06 42

duprelatour@aguttes.com