21 HAUTE JOAILLERIE CREATIONS
AUDACITY AND ELEGANCE FROM AN ITALIAN COLLECTOR
On 6 July 2023, the House will be auctioning a private collection of 21 pieces of Haute Joaillerie. This original ensemble illustrates 40 years of creation between Europe and the United States, and bears witness to the discerning eye and assured, singular taste of an Italian collector.
21 Haute Joaillerie creations. The boldness and elegance of an Italian collector
On discovering these 21 pieces, jewellery expert Philippine Dupré la Tour immediately noted the coherent yet singular character of the ensemble. This Italian collector, with her assured taste, has set her sights on colourful creations from different periods. Unlike many collectors, she didn't limit herself to just one or two designers; this collection brings together jewellery by some of the greatest names: Bulgari, Mauboussin, David Webb, Cartier, Codognato, Van Cleef & Arpels and Sterlé.
These pieces, meticulously selected over the decades, are all characterised by their distinctive style, and reveal the bold personality of their owner, combining finesse and character. Some of the jewels will also stand out for their monumentality. The eye never ceases to wonder as it moves from one jewellery creation to the next. Each of these pieces, charged with affection and history, illustrates the style of a fine jewellery house, according to the influences of the moment, between the 1930s and the 1970s. A collection often expresses a personality, and provides an insight into the choices made by the man or woman who created it. 21 Haute Joaillerie creations. The audacity and elegance of an Italian collector tells us about her love affairs and travels, in a world where jewellery is part of the outfit and life of each of its owners.
21 jewellery creations from 1930 to 1970. A selection
Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, a rare double provenance
A bracelet reproduced on the wrist of the model featured in an illustration by Horst will be offered at auction. Vogue, December 1938, mentions "mise en scène des bijoux Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin". A Mauboussin certificate of authenticity, drawn up by Marguerite de Cerval, accompanies this jewel set with rubies and diamonds and engraved reflection. A bracelet, also from this reflection collection, made in emeralds and diamonds for the actress Paulette Goddard, is reproduced in the book "Mauboussin" (Editions du Regard, 1992, p.141). Her husband, Charlie Chaplin, gave the actress this jewel to make up for her disappointment at not being chosen as the lead in the film Gone with the Wind.
Trabert & Hoeffer MAUBOUSSIN, circa 1938
Large bangle bracelet set with ruby cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds
Estimate: €50,000 - €70,000
Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin is a rare double provenance, illustrating both New York and the inter-war period. In New York in 1924, Mauboussin was awarded a grand prize at the French Exhibition, and this American recognition led to the opening of its first boutique on Park Avenue. A branch in Florida and a second shop in New York soon followed, but the Great Depression of 1929 brought this expansion to a halt. In March 1936, the New York Times announced the partnership between Mauboussin and the American company Trabert & Hoeffer, which lasted until 1953. Trabert & Hoeffer, jeweller to the stars, counted Ingrid Bergman, Paulette Goddard and Audrey Hepburn among its loyal customers, and was able to build on its already well-established reputation. Vogue magazine unveiled the first Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin Inc. advertising campaign during the summer, and the successful Reflection concept. In this way, it sought to adapt to the means and preferences of its clientele. Adaptable and creative, Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin then defined this collection as "the ideal way to express your own personality in a piece of jewellery [...], our current collection is the largest in our history in a variety that will appeal to all tastes".
Codognato jewellery created for Gabrielle Chanel
A famous Venetian jeweller founded in 1866, Codognato became famous for its daring, surrealist creations, worn by renowned personalities such as the Duchess of Windsor and members of the Italian royal family. In 1920, Gabrielle Chanel travelled to Venice with her friends, the Serts, to console herself after the accidental death of her great love, Boy Capel. It was certainly on this occasion
that the designer discovered Codognato. Very much in vogue at the time, brooches in the moretto style, which generally used coloured stones combined with enamel, illustrated a dream of the Orient. It seems that the designer wished to follow the trend of the moment by ordering one of these brooches from Codognato. A period document from the Venetian firm attests that this important clip was made for Gabrielle Chanel. Set with a large emerald weighing over 180 carats, diamonds, ebony and amber, this spectacular piece of jewellery reflects the audacity of the fashion designer. A loyal customer, she bought many pieces of jewellery for her personal collection well into the 1950s, and one of the most famous strands of pearls she wore was a very pale jade necklace from Codognato.
"Fashion goes out of fashion, style never does". Coco Chanel
CODOGNATO
Important "Codognato of Venice" clip
Engraved emerald, carved ebony, amber and brilliant-cut diamonds
Signed
Estimate: €12,000 - €18,000
Bulgari, innovative and timeless
Founded in 1884, the Italian house of Bulgari is renowned for its innovative and timeless creations. From the 1960s onwards, it used cabochon-cut stones in many of its creations, as shown by this ribbon necklace made around 1970.
Juxtaposed with diamonds, the smooth domes of coloured stones give Bulgari creations a distinctive character and unique aesthetic. The hexagonal cross-section sometimes imitates the scales of a snake, as in the Serpenti creations, which can undulate like the reptiles depicted, and sometimes honeycomb cells, which give the jewellery great flexibility
BULGARI
Ribbon necklace set with ruby and onyx cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds
Signed and numbered. Circa 1970.
Estimate: €30,000 - €40,000
David Webb or the "Fabergé of the 20th century
David Webb (1925-1975), the American jeweller who left his mark on the jewellery world in the 1960s, began his career as an apprentice with a New York jeweller, before opening his own boutique in Manhattan in 1948. His bold, avant-garde creations, which stood out from the traditional styles of the time, quickly made his reputation. A master of the enamelling technique, in which a layer of molten glass is applied to a metallic surface to create vibrant patterns and colours, he was dubbed the "Fabergé of the 20th century" by fashion editor Diana Vreeland. This glowing comparison underlined David Webb's exceptional artistic and technical talent as a jewellery designer. His famous and loyal customers included the Duchess of Windsor, the actress Elizabeth Taylor and the First Lady of the United States, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. The latter brought the jeweller all the way to the White House to make diplomatic gifts. Characteristic of David Webb's jewellery is the palette of vivid colours created by enamel and a wide variety of precious and semi-precious stones, such as sapphires, emeralds, rubies, tourmalines, amethysts and citrines. He loved creating pieces that were surprising, unique and fun.
DAVID WEBB
Hippopotamus" bracelet
Sapphire, black enamel, emerald cabochons
Signed. Circa 1965
Estimate: €15,000 - €20,000
As this "Hippopotamus" bracelet shows, his jewellery is often inspired by nature, flowers, shells and, above all, surprising animals. Bold yet simple, David Webb's creations, like this hippopotamus, are never overly complex or overloaded, remaining both modern and timeless. Several of his designs are still highly acclaimed today: the Twin Frog Bracelet featured in the sale of the estate of the Duchess of Windsor, the Zebra bracelet, of which Diana Vreeland had a black and white enamel example, and the gold bracelets made using the repoussé technique, depicting a crocodile, a leopard or a hippopotamus. This jewellery jungle is complemented by a population of monkeys in clips or brooches, and many other beasts of all kinds. A Twin Frog bracelet and a set of prank monkeys also feature in the catalogue.
Discover the presentation of this collection in pictures
Thursday 6 July 2023 at 2.30pm
Exhibition by appointment
Until Monday 3 July: contact +33 (0)1 41 92 06 47
Public exhibition
Tuesday 4 and Wednesday 5 July: 10am - 6pm
Thursday 6 July: 10am - 12pm
Consult the catalogue
See the list of lots
Philippine Dupré la Tour
Director of the Jewellery & Fine Pearls Department
+33 6 17 50 75 44 • duprelatour@aguttes.com
Aguttes - 164 bis avenue Charles-de-Gaulle - Neuilly-sur-Seine