DAVID WEBB, THE "FABERGÉ OF THE 20th CENTURY
David Webb (1925-1975) was an American jeweler who left his mark on jewelry in the 1960s. Webb began his career as an apprentice with a New York jeweler and went on to open his own boutique in 1948 in Manhattan. His bold, avant-garde creations, which stood out from the traditional styles of the time, quickly made his reputation.
He was a master of the enameling technique, in which a layer of molten glass is applied to a metal surface to create vibrant patterns and colors. The jeweler was dubbed the "Fabergé of the 20th century" by fashion editor Diana Vreeland. This comparison was intended to underline David Webb's exceptional talent as an artistic and technical jewelry designer. As Fabergé jewels are famous for their exceptional quality, beauty and originality, this comparison was highly commendable. Webb didn't work for an imperial family as Fabergé did, but his famous and loyal clients included the actress Elizabeth Taylor and the First Lady of the United States, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. The latter took the jeweler all the way to the White House, for whom he fulfilled orders for diplomatic gifts.
The vivid color palette is characteristic of David Webb's jewelry. In addition to enamel, he used a wide variety of precious and semi-precious stones, such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies and tourmalines, as well as amethysts and citrines. He loved to create pieces that were stunning, unique and fun.
His jewelry is most often inspired by nature, flowers, shells and, above all, surprising animals. Several of her designs are now household names: The Twin Frog Bracelet made for the Duchess of Windsor, the Zebra bracelet, of which Diana Vreeland had a black and white enamel example, and also the gold bracelets made using the repoussé technique, representing crocodiles, leopards and hippopotamuses. This jewelry jungle is complemented by a population of prankster monkeys in clips or brooches, and many other beasts of all kinds. We'll be delighted to present a few animals from this fantastic bestiary at the July 6 catalog sale.
David Webb's bold yet simple creations are never too complex or overloaded, remaining both modern and timeless.
Invite to consign
July 2023
To include your jewelry in a sale, please contact
Philippine Dupré la Tour
Jewelry & Fine Pearls Department Manager
+33 6 17 50 75 44
duprelatour@aguttes.com
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Penny PRODDOW & Marion FASEL, “BEJEWELED, great designers, celebrity style”, 2001, Editions Abrams
Ruth PELTASON, “David Webb, the quintessential american jeweler”, 2013, Editions Assouline