A Cartier Bird of Paradise
Soaring Birds in Jewelry
Birds, creatures between sky and earth, captivate with their elusive beauty and symbolize freedom with their wings that allow them to rise above the ordinary. In the 1940s, after World War II, the bird motif experiences a particular surge in jewelry, becoming a strong symbol represented by major houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Marchak, Chaumet, and Cartier.
Realistic, articulated, in flight, in their nests, on a branch, or in a cage, birds inspire a great diversity of shapes, lines, and colors in jewelry creation. The draftsman Peter Lemarchand, after observing birds at the Vincennes Zoo, translates these creatures into flamboyant jewelry for the Cartier house.
The Bird of Paradise
In Cartier's vast aviary, one bird particularly catches the eye: the bird of paradise, also known as the paradise bird. This group of around forty species of passerines native to Southeast Asia, the Paradisaeidae, is characterized by spectacular and colorful plumage. Discovered by Europeans in the 15th century, these birds were scientifically described and illustrated in detail only in the 19th century.
Perched Bird
The conventional representation of a bird perched on its branch, found in science books, evokes a sense of tranquility. This posture invites the viewer to a conversation with the messenger of the sky before its next flight.
A Cartier Paradise Bird
A brooch featuring a bird of paradise signed by Cartier will be auctioned on April 13, 2023. The paradise bird, perched on a branch, is entirely set with white diamonds, with a ruby highlighting its eye. The diamond pavé exhibits variations in dimensions and shapes, accentuating the elegant S-shaped silhouette of the bird. A collar at the base of the neck gives particular majesty to its head crowned with a crest.
CARTIER Clip "Oiseau du paradis"
Round and baguette diamonds, pear-shaped ruby
18k gold (750), platinum (950)
Signed Cartier mount Cartier master hallmark and numbering (illegible)
Approx. H: 7.5cm - Wt.: 18gr
Estimation: €18,000 - €20,000
FINE JEWELRY & PEARLS
Auction April 13, 2023 Aguttes Neuilly
Director of the Fine Jewelry & Pearls department
Philippine Dupré la Tour
+33 1 41 92 06 42 • duprelatour@aguttes.com