The story of a house that makes bids soar

Birkin, Kelly, and Constance are among the iconic pieces that have shaped the Hermès house, but more accessible items like silk scarves and silver jewelry also remain key pillars of the brand.

Hermès owes much of its renown to Robert Dumas. A member of the third generation, he took the helm of the company in 1951, but had already been behind many of its successes. He was, among other things, the designer of the Kelly bag, the Chaîne d’ancre bracelet, and the creative mind behind the first silk scarf.


Hermès
«Le Canada - Samuel de Champlain»
Silk scarf designed by Olivier Kermit
Sold for: €390

Designed by Robert Dumas and Lola Prusac in 1937, the first Carré stemmed from craftsmanship already deeply rooted in the Hermès house. Originally a saddler, Hermès gradually expanded its product range in response to the needs of clients involved in equestrianism—the silk twill used for the Carrés was initially made for jockey silks, those colorful jackets representing competing families—as well as to the demand for more luxurious everyday items.
Created to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary, the first design, titled Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches, was inspired by the idea of a board game. But beyond its aesthetic, it was the technical aspects that established the blueprint for a global success: made of mulberry silk in Lyon, sized at 90 x 90 cm, screen-printed by hand, with hand-rolled and hand-stitched hems.


Hermès
«Birkin»
Togo leather bag in étoupe color
Sold for: €12,500

When it comes to jewelry, it was less the equestrian world and more the maritime realm that initially inspired Robert Dumas. It was during trips to the Normandy coast that he is said to have drawn inspiration from the various chains adorning boats and docks. After dozens of sketches, the first bracelet of the French house was born under his hand.
Ever a pioneer in his approach, Robert Dumas made the bold choice to craft his jewelry in silver—a first in the world of French fine jewelry—with the help of Gaetan de Percin, an artisan specialized in silversmithing who had trained in the workshop of Georges Lenfant. This renowned workshop would later go on to create one of the iconic variations of the Chaîne d’ancre design in gold, its signature material.

HERMÈS
Bracelet maille « Grain de riz »
Argent (<800), or 18k (750)
Sold for 27 950€

HERMÈS
« chaine d'ancre » brecelet
18k (750) gold
Signé et numéroté – Poinçon de maître Georges Lenfant
Vendu 23 616€

Upcoming Auction
Jewels & Fine Pearls
Wednesday, July 2, 2025

For more information or to include a lot in our upcoming auctions, please contact:

Philippine Dupré la Tour
Director and Specialist, Jewelry Department
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 42 - duprelatour@aguttes.com

Adeline Juguet
Specialist
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47 - juguet@aguttes.com

Éléonore des Beauvais
Specialist
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47 - desbeauvais@aguttes.com