The Coromandel Lacquers : Treasures of Asia

Symbol of Europe's Taste for "Chinoiserie" in the 18th Century, Coromandel Lacquerware. Coromandel lacquers were one of the favored commodities of the various European East India Companies throughout the 18th century, embodying Europe's fascination with "chinoiserie."

The long and perilous trade route connecting the Middle Kingdom to Europe followed the eastern coast of India, known as the "Coromandel Coast." It was in the ports along this coastline that lacquerware was transshipped from Chinese junks onto Western vessels.


Coromandel Lacquer Screen
China, Qing Dynasty, circa 1690
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, Lisbon

This lacquer technique, known in China as kuan cai (款彩), literally meaning "cut and colored," involves covering a wooden core with a preparatory layer composed of fine fabric and plant-based glue. Multiple layers of dark brown lacquer are then applied. The surface is subsequently engraved to create the design, revealing the preparatory layer beneath. The backgrounds of the engraved sections are enhanced with colors and gilding, producing a subtle polychrome effect and striking contrasts between the glossy lacquer and the matte polychromy.

Due to its long and complex process, this technique was reserved for exceptional pieces, particularly large palace screens crafted for the Chinese aristocracy. These screens, along with custom-made items such as cabinets and chests, captivated European elites, becoming an integral part of princely interiors in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century.


Eight-Panel Coromandel Lacquer Screen with Palace Scenes
China, Qing Dynasty, late 17th–18th century
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon

Some lacquer panels were repurposed by luxury merchants (marchands-merciers) to serve as decorative wall paneling or to adorn furniture. However, the rise of highly decorative yet affordable Chinese wallpapers and the waning interest in "chinoiserie" in the latter half of the 18th century led to the decline of Coromandel lacquerware's popularity.

The resurgence of "Japonisme" in the late 19th century and the Art Deco period brought Coromandel lacquers back into the spotlight. Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971) is said to have owned as many as 32 Coromandel lacquer screens, which adorned her apartment at 31 Rue Cambon. After being long overlooked, these lacquer pieces have seen renewed interest among collectors and enthusiasts, with some fetching spectacular auction results exceeding €200,000.