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RAYMOND TEMPLIER
Brooch
Fees include commission and taxes.
Brooch
An exceptional brooch in platinum (950) and 18-carat white gold (750), featuring a geometric design composed of discs interspersed with broken lines in polished gold, coral and old-cut diamonds.
Circa 1928
. Signed Raymond Templier.
Height: approx. 5.8 cm.
Weight: 22.8 g
Raymond Templier, *Le bijou moderne* by
Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique
Ristelhueber. Norma Editions
. Illustration of a brooch based on a very similar design on page 172
, *L'Architecte du Bijou*: “He plays with shapes and volumes.
Thus, on either side of a central line, two motifs move apart...
In some pieces of jewellery, two similar motifs face each other—two semicircles, for example—as if reflected in a mirror... This duality is also played out through the materials.
The black of the lacquer contrasts with the whiteness of the diamond” page 57
Raymond Templier, Modern
Jewellery by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique
Ristelhueber. Norma Editions
Founded in 1841, the eponymous house rose to prominence thanks to Raymond Templier (1891–1968) when he made a name for himself at the Salon de la Société des Artistes Décorateurs (SAD) from 1911 onwards. His designs, characterised by clean lines, revolutionised jewellery, which evolved into Art Deco and then Modern styles.
He contributed to the transition from Art Nouveau to Art Deco by rejecting traditional motifs and naturalistic forms in favour of geometric designs inspired by antiquity. At the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, his avant-garde and daring creations stood out: he made innovative use of gold, silver and diamonds, as well as materials previously unseen in fine jewellery such as lacquer, onyx and rock crystal.
His jewellery reflected an aesthetic of industrialisation, speed and modernity. Upon the founding of the Union des artistes modernes (UAM) in 1929, Raymond Templier became secretary of the executive committee. He stood alongside the avant-garde that transformed the history of the decorative arts.
In 1937, the Templier firm took part in the International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques Applied to Modern Life. In 1954, the magazine Mobilier et Décoration devoted an article to him: “Raymond Templier, architect of jewellery”, written by Renée Moutard-Uldry.