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SUZANNE BELPERRON

The item was sold for 18 368

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SUZANNE BELPERRON
Balloon bouquet" brooch
Chalcedony cabochons in various colors, yellow, orange, blue, green, etc.
18k (750) gold
Circa 1950
H.: 5.7 cm - Weight: 25 g
Accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin attesting that it is a Suzanne Belperron creation and specifying that it is a brooch commissioned in December 1950 and made in duplicate on the occasion of an anniversary.
Reference: Sale Beaussant-Lefèvre & Associés -
June 2022, lot 212 for the other example.

Suzanne Belperron, a personality, a character...
An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewelry
First prize from the École des Beaux-arts de Besançon in 1918,
Suzanne Belperron began her brilliant career in 1919 alongside
with Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a designer and
designer. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected
in the mirror of the deceased René Boivin, Madame Belperron, then
who had been co-director of the company for almost ten years
leaving behind her an indelible mark. Bernard Herz,
a major trader in pearls and precious stones, who suggested
to take over the reins of his company, will enable her to flourish
to blossom in complete freedom. From now on, Suzanne Belperron
one of the most fashionable designers of the crazy
30s. Her designs revolutionized the world of jewelry|
her materials, her volumes, her creations sometimes verged on the
artistic and sculptural excess. Even though
exuberant, it is no less elegant.
elegant. Creativity never oversteps the bounds of good taste.
This is the key to the Belperron mystery.
Suzanne Belperron's work is singular. It is expressed
graphic and pure, but above all sensual, not to say carnal.
not to say carnal. A prestigious clientele
as evidenced by her order books, which list
royal families, aristocrats, bankers and movie stars.
and movie stars... All over the world, people marvel at the
imagined for the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga Khan
Aga Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness of Rothschild,
Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska
or Merle Oberon...
Unlike most of the great jewellers, Suzanne Belperron never
never signed her jewels. Endowed with a strong personality, the artist's
her only adage was "my style is my signature".

A chalcedony and gold brooch by Suzanne Belperron. Olivier Baroin certificate


Suzanne Belperron, a personality, a character...
An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewelry

irst prize at the School of Fine Arts in Besançon in 1918,
Suzanne Belperron began her brilliant career in 1919 alongside
Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a designer and model
maker. In March 1932, weary of being in the shadow of the
late René Boivin, Madame Belperron, who was co-director
of the Maison for almost ten years, resigned, leaving behind
an indelible mark. Bernard Herz, a major pearl and gemstone
merchant, offered her the opportunity to take over the reins of his
company and gave her the freedom to develop. From then on,
Suzanne Belperron was one the most fashionable designers of
the roaring '30s. Her models revolutionized the world of jewelry|
their materials, their volumes. Her creations were sometimes on
the verge of excess, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if
the jewelry sometimes seemed a bit exuberant, they remained
elegant. Her creativity always remained within the bounds of
good taste, which is the key to the Belperron mystery.
Suzanne Belperron's work is unique. It is expressed through
jewelry that is indeed graphic and pure, but above all sensual, if
not carnal. A prestigious clientele sought her out, as evidenced
by her order books, which list royal families, aristocrats, bankers,
and movie stars. People all over the world admire the jewelry
she designed for the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga
Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness de Rothschild,
Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska,
and Merle Oberon...
Unlike most great jewelers, Suzanne Belperron never signed
her jewelry. A strong personality, she had a single motto: "My
style is my signature".
Une personnalité, un caractère... Une figure emblématique du monde de la joaillerie moderne Premier prix de l'École des Beauxarts de Besançon en 1918, Suzanne Belperron débute dès 1919 sa brillante carrière aux côtés de Jeanne Boivin qui l'engage au poste de dessinatrice modéliste. En mars 1932, lasse de voir son image se refléter dans le miroir du défunt René Boivin, Madame Belperron alors codirectrice de la Maison depuis bientôt dix ans, démissionne laissant derrière elle, une empreinte inaltérable. Bernard Herz, grand négociant en perles fines et pierres précieuses, qui lui a proposé de prendre les rênes de sa société va lui permettre de s'épanouir en toute liberté. Suzanne Belperron va désormais compter parmi les créatrices les plus en vogue des folles années 30. Ses modèles révolutionnent le monde de la parure | ses matières, ses volumes, ses créations effleurent parfois la démesure, tant sur un plan artistique que sculptural. Même si le bijou se veut parfois un peu exubérant, il n'en demeure pas moins élégant. Sa créativité n'outrepasse jamais la limite du bon goût : là est la clef du mystère Belperron. L'oeuvre de Suzanne Belperron est singulière. Elle se traduit par des bijoux certes graphiques et purs, mais surtout sensuels pour ne pas dire charnels. Une clientèle prestigieuse la sollicite comme en témoignent ses carnets de commandes qui répertorient familles royales, aristocrates, banquiers ou étoiles du cinéma... Aux quatre coins du monde, on s'émerveille devant les parures imaginées pour la duchesse de Windsor, la bégum Aga Khan, la maharani de Baroda, la baronne de Rothschild, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska ou Merle Oberon... Contrairement à la plupart des grands joailliers, Suzanne Belperron ne signa jamais ses bijoux. Dotée d'une forte personnalité, l'artiste avait pour seul adage «mon style est ma signature». Son oeuvre inspire d'ailleurs, encore aujourd'hui, grand nombre d'entre eux. Olivier Baroin