CODOGNATO

The House of Codognato, a renowned Venetian jewellery house founded in 1866, is known for its bold and surrealist designs, which have been worn by such distinguished figures as the Duchess of Windsor and the Italian royal family. In 1920, Gabrielle Chanel travelled to Venice with her friends, the Serts, to console herself following the accidental death of her great love, Boy Capel. It was undoubtedly on this occasion that she discovered the House of Codognato. Moretto-style brooches were very much in vogue at the time; they generally featured coloured gemstones combined with enamel and evoked a dreamlike vision of the Orient. It would appear that the designer wished to follow the trend of the moment by commissioning one of these brooches from the house of Codognato. Set with a large emerald weighing over 180 carats, diamonds, ebony and amber, this piece is spectacular and perfectly matches the fashion designer’s boldness. Gabrielle Chanel’s fascination with the House of Codognato was not limited to this Moretto. She was a loyal customer, purchasing numerous pieces of jewellery for her personal collection right up until the 1950s; among the famous strings of pearls for which she is known, she wore a very pale jade necklace acquired from the House of Codognato.