TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN

Mauboussin designed by Marguerite de Cerval.
Reproduced on the wrist of the model in an illustration by Horst: a display of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin jewellery, Vogue, December 1938.
A bracelet from this ‘Reflection’ collection, crafted from emeralds for the actress Paulette Goddard, is reproduced in the book ‘Mauboussin’ (Éditions du Regard, 1992, p. 141). It was given to her by Charlie Chaplin to console her disappointment at not having been chosen as the lead actress in the film ‘Gone with the Wind’. The Reflection bracelet we present is a design similar to the one Charlie Chaplin gave to his wife Paulette Goddard, set with emeralds.
This gift was intended to console her for not having been chosen as the lead in the film “Gone with the Wind”.

In the early 1920s, whilst the Mauboussin house had already established a solid reputation in Paris, it was across the Atlantic that Georges Mauboussin saw an opportunity to showcase French jewellery in a bolder, more avant-garde style.
The world that opened up to him there was experiencing a period of prosperity and economic dynamism during what we call “the Roaring Twenties”.
In 1924, at the French Exhibition in New York, Mauboussin was awarded a grand prize, and then received a gold medal at the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1925. This accolade led to the opening of their first American boutique on 51st Street. In 1928, branches were opened in New York, London and Buenos Aires. In 1929, the stock market crash brought this expansion to a halt. To maintain a presence in the US, in 1936 Mauboussin partnered with Trabert & Hoeffer, a highly renowned American jeweller and goldsmith much favoured by silver-screen stars. The interests were genuinely shared; this alliance would allow Trabert & Hoeffer to align more closely with French elegance and Mauboussin to continue its expansion.
Together, they quickly realised that the media set the trends: the biggest celebrities became ambassadors for their brand, including Marlene Dietrich, Paulette Goddard and Audrey Hepburn, who were seen posing in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar. In 1939, they launched the ‘Reflection’ concept, which was an instant success.
The message was simple: this collection was “the ideal way to express one’s own personality through jewellery”. It was a new privilege offering customers the opportunity to be involved in the jewellery design process and thus to express their artistic preferences.
It was a bracelet set with emeralds and diamonds from this “Reflection” collection, based on a design similar to the one presented here, that Charlie Chaplin chose to give to his wife Paulette Goddard to console her after she had not been selected for the lead role in *Gone with the Wind*.
This dual partnership lasted until 1953 and revolutionised the conventions of modern jewellery.

In 1924, at the French Exhibition in New York, Mauboussin was awarded an Excellence Prize and won a gold medal at the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. Mauboussin’s recognition led to the opening of their first American store on Park Avenue. In 1928, others followed in London and Buenos Aires.
Due to the financial crisis of 1929, Mauboussin adopted a new strategy.
In 1936, Mauboussin merged with an American jeweller favoured by famous film stars, Trabert & Hoeffer. They understood that the media set the trends.
The most famous celebrities became ambassadors for the brand: Marlene Dietrich, Paulette Goddard and Audrey Hepburn posing for Vogue magazine and Harper’s Bazaar.
In 1939, the brand launched the “Reflection” concept, which was a great success.The promotional message was quite simple: “This collection is the best way to put your own personality into your jewellery.” The Reflection concept gave customers the opportunity to get involved in the conception and design process of the jewellery and thus express their creative vision.
The “Reflection” bracelet we present is a design similar to the one Charlie Chaplin gave to his wife Paulette Goddard, set with emeralds. This gift was intended to console her after she was not chosen for the lead role in the film “Gone with the Wind”.
The joint signature of Trabert and Hoeffer – Mauboussin lasted until 1953. This collaboration undoubtedly left its mark on modern jewellery.