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SUZANNE BELPERRON
NECKLACE "TORQUE
Turquoise, rose cut diamonds, black enamel
Silver (<|800)
L. : 32.5 cm approx - Pb. 32.7 gr.
Accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin, attesting to a creation of Suzanne Belperron around 1935.
A turquoise, diamond, black enamel and silver necklace, certificate
Suzanne Belperron
A personality, a character... An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewelry.
Suzanne Belperron won first prize at the Besançon School of Fine Arts in 1918. In 1919, she began her brilliant career with Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a model designer. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of the deceased René Boivin, Madame Belperron, who had been co-director of the company for nearly ten years, resigned, leaving behind her an indelible mark. Bernard Herz, a major pearl and gemstone merchant, offered her the opportunity to take over the reins of his company, allowing her to flourish in complete freedom.
Suzanne Belperron was to become one of the most fashionable designers of the 1930s. Her models revolutionized the world of jewelry| her materials, her volumes, her creations sometimes verge on excess, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if the jewel is sometimes a little exuberant, it remains no less elegant. Her creativity never exceeds the limits of good taste: this is the key to the Belperron mystery. The work of Suzanne
Belperron is singular. Her jewelry is certainly graphic and pure, but above all sensual, not to say carnal.
A prestigious clientele solicits her as shown by her order books which list royal families, aristocrats, bankers or movie stars...
the world, one marvels at the finery imagined for the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness of Rothschild, Elsa
Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska or Merle Oberon...
Unlike most of the great jewelers, Suzanne Belperron never signed her jewelry. Endowed with a strong personality, the artist had for only adage "my style is my signature". Her work still inspires many of them today.
Olivier Baroin
In September 1933 Vogue illustrated the article "Des Bijoux Nouveaux" with a photo of Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer, wearing her own Belperron necklace described as a "necklace that is only a black enamel thread buttoned by a diamond [...] whose supreme coquetry is an apparent return to the primitive ages".
It was in the middle of the Art Deco period, 10 years earlier, that Suzanne Belperron made a trip to Egypt to explore the lands of the pharaohs. The Egyptomania bewitched then all the fields
fields of art and jewelry was no exception to this craze. Let's imagine for a moment that this necklace is inspired by it and that it evokes the eye of Horus, the black enamelled necklace would evoke the kohl that adorns the eyes of characters represented in ancient Egyptian iconography. The use of turquoise creates an interesting contrast and brings a certain liveliness to
vivacity to this design. The white of the eye is embellished with diamonds that harmoniously complete the design.
NECKLACE "TORQUE
Turquoise, rose cut diamonds, black enamel
Silver (<|800)
L. : 32.5 cm approx - Pb. 32.7 gr.
Accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin, attesting to a creation of Suzanne Belperron around 1935.
A turquoise, diamond, black enamel and silver necklace, certificate
Suzanne Belperron
A personality, a character... An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewelry.
Suzanne Belperron won first prize at the Besançon School of Fine Arts in 1918. In 1919, she began her brilliant career with Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a model designer. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of the deceased René Boivin, Madame Belperron, who had been co-director of the company for nearly ten years, resigned, leaving behind her an indelible mark. Bernard Herz, a major pearl and gemstone merchant, offered her the opportunity to take over the reins of his company, allowing her to flourish in complete freedom.
Suzanne Belperron was to become one of the most fashionable designers of the 1930s. Her models revolutionized the world of jewelry| her materials, her volumes, her creations sometimes verge on excess, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if the jewel is sometimes a little exuberant, it remains no less elegant. Her creativity never exceeds the limits of good taste: this is the key to the Belperron mystery. The work of Suzanne
Belperron is singular. Her jewelry is certainly graphic and pure, but above all sensual, not to say carnal.
A prestigious clientele solicits her as shown by her order books which list royal families, aristocrats, bankers or movie stars...
the world, one marvels at the finery imagined for the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness of Rothschild, Elsa
Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska or Merle Oberon...
Unlike most of the great jewelers, Suzanne Belperron never signed her jewelry. Endowed with a strong personality, the artist had for only adage "my style is my signature". Her work still inspires many of them today.
Olivier Baroin
In September 1933 Vogue illustrated the article "Des Bijoux Nouveaux" with a photo of Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer, wearing her own Belperron necklace described as a "necklace that is only a black enamel thread buttoned by a diamond [...] whose supreme coquetry is an apparent return to the primitive ages".
It was in the middle of the Art Deco period, 10 years earlier, that Suzanne Belperron made a trip to Egypt to explore the lands of the pharaohs. The Egyptomania bewitched then all the fields
fields of art and jewelry was no exception to this craze. Let's imagine for a moment that this necklace is inspired by it and that it evokes the eye of Horus, the black enamelled necklace would evoke the kohl that adorns the eyes of characters represented in ancient Egyptian iconography. The use of turquoise creates an interesting contrast and brings a certain liveliness to
vivacity to this design. The white of the eye is embellished with diamonds that harmoniously complete the design.
Une personnalité, un caractère... Une figure emblématique du monde de la joaillerie moderne Premier prix de l'École des Beauxarts de Besançon en 1918, Suzanne Belperron débute dès 1919 sa brillante carrière aux côtés de Jeanne Boivin qui l'engage au poste de dessinatrice modéliste. En mars 1932, lasse de voir son image se refléter dans le miroir du défunt René Boivin, Madame Belperron alors codirectrice de la Maison depuis bientôt dix ans, démissionne laissant derrière elle, une empreinte inaltérable. Bernard Herz, grand négociant en perles fines et pierres précieuses, qui lui a proposé de prendre les rênes de sa société va lui permettre de s'épanouir en toute liberté. Suzanne Belperron va désormais compter parmi les créatrices les plus en vogue des folles années 30. Ses modèles révolutionnent le monde de la parure | ses matières, ses volumes, ses créations effleurent parfois la démesure, tant sur un plan artistique que sculptural. Même si le bijou se veut parfois un peu exubérant, il n'en demeure pas moins élégant. Sa créativité n'outrepasse jamais la limite du bon goût : là est la clef du mystère Belperron. L'oeuvre de Suzanne Belperron est singulière. Elle se traduit par des bijoux certes graphiques et purs, mais surtout sensuels pour ne pas dire charnels. Une clientèle prestigieuse la sollicite comme en témoignent ses carnets de commandes qui répertorient familles royales, aristocrates, banquiers ou étoiles du cinéma... Aux quatre coins du monde, on s'émerveille devant les parures imaginées pour la duchesse de Windsor, la bégum Aga Khan, la maharani de Baroda, la baronne de Rothschild, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska ou Merle Oberon... Contrairement à la plupart des grands joailliers, Suzanne Belperron ne signa jamais ses bijoux. Dotée d'une forte personnalité, l'artiste avait pour seul adage «mon style est ma signature». Son oeuvre inspire d'ailleurs, encore aujourd'hui, grand nombre d'entre eux. Olivier Baroin