René Lalique (1860–1945)

An undisputed genius of Art Nouveau, René Lalique, a true lover of nature, brought a unique splendour to the garden of art history from the late 19th to the early 20th century. His jewellery creations are those of an innovator inspired by his era, yet one who upheld the traditional craftsmanship of a conservative trade.

This enchanting brooch, featuring three Datura flowers—also known as ‘magicians’ herb’—is a testament to the technical virtuosity and the distinct, lapidary symbolism that characterise Lalique’s creations. Indeed, the artist uses mother-of-pearl to complement the soft colour of the amethysts and employs an opalescent green cloisonné enamel to facilitate the transition from the gold to the iridescence of the semi-precious stones.

An original and inventive artist, Lalique was also a rebellious spirit, hostile to convention. Behind the appearance of these white Datura flowers lies, in reality, a highly toxic plant known as a poison. One might see in this a metaphor for the ambiguous figure of the femme fatale: at once sublime and dangerous to anyone who dares to come too close.