A 21-carat Colombian emerald: an 18th-century necklace up for auction

«Alors que les pierres de couleur enregistrent depuis plusieurs saisons les résultats les plus remarqués du marché de la joaillerie, les émeraudes figurent parmi les gemmes les plus recherchées pas les collectionneurs internationaux. Ce collier remarquable par la qualité et présence de son émeraude centrale s’inscrit pleinement dans cette dynamique et répond aux attentes des collectionneurs en quête des plus belles gemmes de couleur»

Philippine Dupré la Tour, Directrice du département « Bijoux et Perles Fines » - Aguttes, et Experte agréée Bijoux et Perles Fines auprès de l’Union française des experts

A piece of jewelry that has remained in the same family since the late 18^th century

Preserved for several generations within an aristocratic family in the south of France, this necklace evokes the understated splendor of the French nobility in the late 18th century. Its provenance further enhances the heritage and historical significance of this remarkable piece. Exceptional in its state of preservation, it has survived the centuries without losing any stones or undergoing any significant changes to its original composition.

L’amateur pourra, par ailleurs, apprécier l’intensité du vert et la transparence de l’émeraude centrale.

Autre ensemble à transformation, qui sublime, dans ce cas, un important saphir ovale de plus de 20 carats dans un bel entourage de diamants. Estimé 30 000 / 40 000 € et datant du XIX^e siècle, il peut se porter en bracelet, bague, pendentif et broche. 

Thanks to their gemological quality and remarkable state of preservation, these pieces of jewelry reflect the refinement of their era, when the most precious creations were often designed to be transformed and adapted for different uses. They also illustrate today’s enthusiasm among collectors for beautiful colored gemstones.

Aguttes, France’s leading specialist in fine pearls

“Paris was the leading market for fine pearls until the 1920s. After a century in the shadows, tucked away in drawers, it’s quite magical for me to see these pearls being sold at soaring prices.”

Philippine Dupré la Tour, Director of the “Fine Jewelry and Pearls” Department at Aguttes, and Certified Expert in Fine Jewelry and Pearls with the French Union of Experts

As the only auction house in Europe with a department specializing in the appraisal, evaluation, and sale of so-called “fine” natural pearls, Aguttes showcases these long-forgotten gems and regularly rediscovers rare pieces of jewelry, such as this double-strand necklace of 88 fine pearls, estimated at €25,000–35,000.

While the diameter, shape, and purity of the pearl’s surface are easily assessed, color, luster, and orient are three very different and far more subjective criteria. The uniformity of the pearls that make up a necklace also influences its price. For the past fifteen years or so, fine pearls have sparked a veritable craze among collectors and buyers in the luxury sector.

The Evolution of Style Over Time Among the Leading Names in Jewelry

Like previous editions, this auction catalog traces the evolution of jewelry within the leading houses.

A dynasty of jewelers spanning three generations, the Falize house distinguished itself with richly enameled creations inspired by both the East and historical European styles. This “Holbeinesque” pendant and chain, estimated at €6,000 to €8,000, bear witness to this legacy. A preparatory gouache sketch by Lucien Falize reveals the evolution of the design: initially conceived to hang from a silk thread alternating between gold and enamel, the pendant was ultimately mounted on a chain made entirely of gold and enamel, as it is presented today.

Created in the spirit of the jewelry drawings attributed to Hans Holbein (1497–1543)—whose collections served as a major source of inspiration for 19th-century jewelers—this piece illustrates Lucien Falize’s talent for reinterpreting Renaissance aesthetics. Aguttes will offer it for sale on June 30, 2026.

Cartier also drew inspiration from other cultures, and these “Indian, Sioux” Clips reflect this exotic trend of the 1930s.

As for Boucheron, the house really made its mark during the Art Deco period. With its highly geometric shapes, this “Saphir” lapel pin perfectly exemplifies that style.

Cartier draws on the design elements of the Tank jewelry collection with a modern twist, creating convertible sets: this postwar necklace can also be worn as two bracelets.

In the 1950s, Boucheron created particularly ornate necklaces designed to complement cocktail attire at high-society events. The piece shown here perfectly illustrates this penchant for spectacular jewelry, with its imposing rectangular citrines lending the entire piece its striking presence and character.

Since its founding in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has taken a special interest in flora and fauna, incorporating them into the iconographic repertoire of its creations. While many animals have been transformed into brooches, flowers hold a special place and have evolved over the decades, adapting to every style, from Art Deco to contemporary designs. The “Belles feuilles” clip continues this naturalistic tradition, while the combination of three colored gemstones brings the composition to life and reflects the 1950s’ penchant for bold color harmonies.

Truly emblematic of the 1960s and 1970s—both in its setting, a skillful blend of round and calibrated diamonds, and in its design, which exudes movement and lightness—this “Camélia” brooch is set with diamonds and emeralds.

In the 1980s, Bulgari distinguished itself with creations featuring vivid, contrasting colors, reflecting a decade marked by stylistic boldness. Founded in 1884, the Rome-based house developed an innovative approach to color, combining precious and semi-precious stones in unique chromatic harmonies. This piece of jewelry perfectly exemplifies this aesthetic, in which color plays a central role in the composition.

In 1989, Fred created the “Les Fredy’s” collection. These playful little figurines with pearl heads can be worn as brooches or on a chain and take on a thousand and one different forms. Blending whimsy, humor, and jewelry craftsmanship, they embody the brand’s free-spirited and playful essence. This gold creation, adorned with a Mabé pearl, a sapphire, diamonds, and enamel, depicts “The Painter.”

Public Exhibition:

Friday, June 26, 2026: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Saturday, June 27, 2026: 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Monday, June 29, 2026: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Tuesday, June 30, 2026: 10 a.m. – 12 p.m.

Public auction: June 30, 2026, at 2:30 p.m.