The Review
Fine Jewelry & Pearls
Emeralds in All Their Glory
Zambia, Colombia, Brazil, as well as Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Madagascar—an emerald’s country of origin significantly influences its characteristics. From the intensity of its color, which may lean toward blue or yellow, to its "jardin," the term referring to the natural inclusions that authenticate the gemstone, each aspect plays a role in determining its rarity and, ultimately, its valuation.
The only precious stone in the beryl family, emerald is instantly recognizable by its green hue and is found in numerous deposits worldwide. The most prestigious and abundant remains the Boyacá Triangle in Colombia, known for producing the most intense green emeralds. While this origin is the most sought-after, for decades, mine operators have systematically applied heat treatments and oil impregnation to enhance the stones. Today, these factors have become crucial in gemstone valuation, with untreated stones commanding a premium.
In jewelry, emeralds are highly prized in all their shades and cuts but require exceptional care, both in their setting and daily wear. With a hardness ranging from 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale (which spans from 1 for talc to 10 for diamond), emeralds are best suited to bezel settings, offering superior protection against shocks. They are also frequently surrounded by diamonds in timeless designs such as the "Marguerite," "Marquise," or "Pompadour" styles.
Van Cleef & Arpels
« Emerald » Ring
Sold for €85,800
Auction on July 6, 2023
« Emerald » Necklace
Emeralds and old-cut diamonds
18K gold (750) and silver (800)
Early 19th century
Sold for €386,400
Sale on April 16, 2021
Discover the highlights of our last sale on March 26 :
Lot 135 : « Emerald » Pendant
Origin : Colombia
Sold for €137,760
Lot 134 : Pendant « Emerald »
Oval emeralds, round brilliant-cut diamonds
Sold for €94,464
Lot 120 : « Emerald » Ring
Origin : Colombia
Sold for €32,800
Upcoming Auction
Fine Jewelry & Pearls
Wednesday, July 2, 2025
For more information or to include a lot in our upcoming sales, please contact
Philippine Dupré la Tour
Director & Fine Jewelry & Pearls Department Expert
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 42
duprelatour@aguttes.com
Specialist
Adeline Juguet
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47
juguet@aguttes.com
Specialist
Éléonore des Beauvais
+33 (0)1 41 92 06 47
desbeauvais@aguttes.com