TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN - Lot 57

Lot 57
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Estimation :
50000 - 70000 EUR
Result with fees
Result : 72 800EUR
TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN - Lot 57
TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN LARGE CUFF BRACELET Ruby cabochons, brilliant-cut diamonds 14k (585) gold, 850 platinum Unsigned - Engraved Reflection - Circa 1938 Bracelet size : 14.5 cm approx. 103.3 gr Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity Mauboussin issued by Marguerite de Cerval. Reproduced on the mannequin's wrist from an illustration by Horst: mise en scène des bijoux Trabert & Hoeffer- Mauboussin, Vogue, December 1938. A bracelet from this "Reflection" collection, made in emeralds for actress Paulette Goddard, is reproduced in "Mauboussin" Éditions du Regard, 1992, p. 141. It was given to her by Charlie Chaplin to console his disappointment that she had not been chosen as the leading lady of the film "Gone with the Wind". A ruby, diamond, gold and platinum bracelet, by Mauboussin, certificate The Reflection bracelet we present is a design near from the one Charlie Chaplin offered to his wife Paulette Goddard set with emeralds. This gift was meant to comfort her for not being chosen as the main character in the movie "Gone with the wind". In the early 1920s, when Mauboussin's reputation was well established in Paris, Georges Mauboussin saw the opportunity to present French jewelry in a more daring, avant-garde style on the other side of the Atlantic. The world that lay before him there experienced a prosperity and economic dynamism that stimulated the period we call the "Roaring Twenties". In 1924, at the French Exhibition in New York, Mauboussin was awarded a Grand Prix, then a Gold Medal at the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1925. This recognition led to the opening of their first American store on 51st Street. In 1928, branches were opened in New York, London and Buenos Aires. In 1929, the stock market crash brought this expansion to a halt. To stay on American soil, in 1936 Mauboussin joined forces with Trabert & Hoeffer, a highly reputed American jeweler and jeweler appreciated by the stars of the silver screen. Their interests were sincerely shared, and the alliance enabled Trabert & Hoeffer to move closer to French elegance, while Mauboussin continued to establish itself. Together, they were quick to understand that the media set the trend: top celebrities became ambassadors for their brand, including Marlène Dietrich, Paulette Goddard and Audrey Hepburn, who posed for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. In 1939, they launched the "Reflection" concept, which met with immediate success. The message was simple: this collection was "the ideal way to express your own personality in jewelry". It's a new privilege, offering customers the opportunity to integrate the jewelry design process and express their own artistic demands. And so it was that Charlie Chaplin chose to give his wife Paulette Goddard a bracelet set with emeralds and diamonds from this "Reflection" collection, in a design similar to the one presented here, to console her for not being cast in the lead role in Gone with the Wind. This double signature lasted until 1953, shaking up the codes of modern jewelry. In 1924, at the French Exhibition in New York, Mauboussin was rewarded with an Excellence Prize and won a gold medal at the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. Mauboussin's consecration led to the opening of their first American store on Park Avenue. In 1928, other ones followed in London and Buenos Aires. Because of the financial crisis of 1929, Mauboussin adopted a new strategy. In 1936, Mauboussin merged with an American jeweller who was appreciated by famous movie stars, Trabert & Hoeffer. They understood that the media make the trend. The most famous celebrities became ambassadors for the brand: Marlene Dietrich, Paulette Goddard and Audrey Hepburn posing for Vogue magazine and Harper's Bazaar. In 1939, the brand launched the "Reflection" concept, which was a great success.The promotional message was quite simple "This collection is the best way to put your own personality into your jewel." The Reflection concept gave the opportunity to the customers to get involved in the conception and design process of the jewel and thus express their creative standards. The "Reflection" bracelet we present is a design near from the one Charlie Chaplin offered to his wife Paulette Goddard set with emeralds. This gift was meant to comfort her for not being chosen as the main character in the movie "Gone with the wind". The double signature of Trabert and Hoeffer - Mauboussin lasted until 1953. This collaboration definitely marked the modern jewelry.
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