SUZANNE BELPERRON - Lot 49

Lot 49
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Estimation :
25000 - 35000 EUR
Result with fees
Result : 62 400EUR
SUZANNE BELPERRON - Lot 49
SUZANNE BELPERRON NECKLACE "TORQUE Turquoise, rose cut diamonds, black enamel Silver (<800) L. : 32.5 cm approx - Pb. 32.7 gr. Accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin, attesting to a creation of Suzanne Belperron around 1935. A turquoise, diamond, black enamel and silver necklace, certificate Suzanne Belperron A personality, a character... An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewelry. Suzanne Belperron won first prize at the Besançon School of Fine Arts in 1918. In 1919, she began her brilliant career with Jeanne Boivin, who hired her as a model designer. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of the deceased René Boivin, Madame Belperron, who had been co-director of the company for nearly ten years, resigned, leaving behind her an indelible mark. Bernard Herz, a major pearl and gemstone merchant, offered her the opportunity to take over the reins of his company, allowing her to flourish in complete freedom. Suzanne Belperron was to become one of the most fashionable designers of the 1930s. Her models revolutionized the world of jewelry; her materials, her volumes, her creations sometimes verge on excess, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if the jewel is sometimes a little exuberant, it remains no less elegant. Her creativity never exceeds the limits of good taste: this is the key to the Belperron mystery. The work of Suzanne Belperron is singular. Her jewelry is certainly graphic and pure, but above all sensual, not to say carnal. A prestigious clientele solicits her as shown by her order books which list royal families, aristocrats, bankers or movie stars... the world, one marvels at the finery imagined for the Duchess of Windsor, the Begum Aga Khan, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness of Rothschild, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna Walska or Merle Oberon... Unlike most of the great jewelers, Suzanne Belperron never signed her jewelry. Endowed with a strong personality, the artist had for only adage "my style is my signature". Her work still inspires many of them today. Olivier Baroin In September 1933 Vogue illustrated the article "Des Bijoux Nouveaux" with a photo of Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer, wearing her own Belperron necklace described as a "necklace that is only a black enamel thread buttoned by a diamond [...] whose supreme coquetry is an apparent return to the primitive ages". It was in the middle of the Art Deco period, 10 years earlier, that Suzanne Belperron made a trip to Egypt to explore the lands of the pharaohs. The Egyptomania bewitched then all the fields fields of art and jewelry was no exception to this craze. Let's imagine for a moment that this necklace is inspired by it and that it evokes the eye of Horus, the black enamelled necklace would evoke the kohl that adorns the eyes of characters represented in ancient Egyptian iconography. The use of turquoise creates an interesting contrast and brings a certain liveliness to vivacity to this design. The white of the eye is embellished with diamonds that harmoniously complete the design.
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