CARTIER

Lot 45
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Estimation :
60000 - 80000 EUR
Result with fees
Result : 80 600EUR
CARTIER
Bracelet adorned with a large "Cashmere" design. Cabochon emeralds and round diamonds. Platinum (950) and 18k (750) yellow gold. Signed and numbered, hallmarked. Circa 1945 / 50. Original case. Diameter : 6.1 cm - Weight : 73 gr. 73 gr. The central motif can be worn as a clip Height : 6.2 cm. A platinum, gold, emerald and diamond bracelet, signed Cartier The bracelet with a paisley motif that we are presenting demonstrates the influences of Islamic art on the stylistic repertoire of the House of Cartier. This particular shape called "paisley" or "paisley motif" is also known as "Boteh" which means "bouquet of flowers" in Persian. The origins of this symbol are controversial and its interpretations are multiple. The boteh is abundantly found in Mughal art from the 16th to the 18th century, as evidenced by the turban jewelry dating from the mid-18th century, displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The paisley motif is also found in other media such as Persian shawls and carpets that travelled along the Silk Road and, later, by ship via the European trading posts established in the East by the East India Companies. For the elaboration of the exhibition "Cartier and the Arts of Islam, at the Sources of Modernity", which will be held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris until February 2022, the archives and library of the house were probed. Louis Cartier had built up a collection of Islamic art from which he drew inspiration for new aesthetics. Louis encouraged his designers to train their eyes, to borrow the motifs they observed, and he made the artworks in his collection available to them. Charles Jacqueau, Cartier's creative director from 1911 to 1935, was a brilliant draftsman who drew inspiration from everything he observed and caught his eye. His drawings and gouaches, preserved in the Petit Palais and on loan for the exhibition, attest to his prolific creativity. In 1910, the Russian ballets directed by Serge Diaghilev performed Scheherazade in Paris and inaugurated the effervescence of Persian taste in France. Cartier took part in this exotic trend, and colored stones revived the adornments of elegant women of the Belle Époque in search of novelty. Worked in cabochons, sapphires, emeralds and rubies juxtaposed with sparkling diamonds enchanted the house's customers. New gems such as onyx, turquoise, amethyst and rock crystal also made their appearance... This diversification of its palette earned Cartier a pioneering position in the use of colored stones. During the 20th century, this repertoire of motifs inherited from the arts of Islam, far from running out of steam, was incorporated into the Cartier style and retains all its contemporaneity.
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