SUZANNE BELPERRON

Lot 59
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Estimation :
20000 - 25000 EUR
Result with fees
Result : 66 395EUR
SUZANNE BELPERRON
*Clip "Fleur"
Citrine, yellow natural color diamonds of old cut, cabochon ruby, engraved emeralds
Master stamp Goené & Darde circa 1940
Top. : 5.8 cm - Pb. : 26.9 gr
Accompanied by a simplified LFG report attesting: natural diamond "Fancy vivid intense"
Accompanied by a certificate from Mr Olivier
Baroin attesting that it is a creation of Suzanne
Belperron
A citrine, fancy vivid intense yellow diamonds, ruby, emerald and gold brooch by Suzanne
Belperron, certificate
SUZANNE BELPERRON A personality, a character... An emblematic figure in the world of modern jewellery.
First prize at the Ecole des Beauxar ts de Besançon in 1918,
Suzanne Belperron began her brilliant career in 1919 at the side of
Jeanne Boivin who hired her as
Suzanne Belperron, 1920. Archives Olivier Baroin draftswoman model maker. In March 1932, tired of seeing her image reflected in the mirror of the late René Boivin, Madame
Belperron, then co-director of the House for nearly ten years, resigned, leaving behind her an unalterable imprint.
Bernard Herz, a great merchant in fine pearls and precious stones, who offered her the opportunity to take over the reins of his company, allowed her to develop in complete freedom.
Suzanne Belperron was now one of the most fashionable designers of the 1930s. Her models revolutionized the world of jewellery; her materials, volumes and creations sometimes touch on excess, both artistically and sculpturally. Even if the jewelry is sometimes a little exuberant, it is no less elegant. Her creativity never exceeds the limits of good taste: this is the key to the Belperron mystery.
Suzanne Belperron's work is singular. Her jewellery is graphic and pure, but above all sensual, not to say carnal.
A prestigious clientele requests her work, as can be seen from her order books, which list royal families, aristocrats, bankers and film stars... All over the world, people marvel at the finery imagined for the Duchess of Windsor, the Aga Khan begum, the Maharani of Baroda, the Baroness of Rothschild, Elsa Schiaparelli,
Nina Ricci, Daisy Fellowes, Ganna
Walska or Merle Oberon...
Unlike most of the great jewellers, Suzanne Belperron never signed her jewellery. Endowed with a strong personality, the artist's only adage was "my style is my signature". Her work still inspires many of them today.
Olivier Baroin "This ensemble - as we rarely see - perfectly illustrates the work of the outstanding colourist Suzanne Belperron.
In addition to the alchemy of the colours, it is the magic of proportions that we find in these pieces; the density of a Burmese ruby paving as opposed to the celestial blue of a Ceylon sapphire for a very "Belperron" ball ring.
A monochrome of pink sapphire cabochons - somewhat opalescent - for a balloon flight that has just escaped from a child's hand.
A flower brooch from a marvellous world of citrine sticks radiating around a ruby cabochon, all enhanced with "vivid intense yellow diamonds" ranging from lemon yellow to buttercup, passing through cognac or canary, the stem punctuated with engraved emeralds.
Finally, the softness of agate to warm these delicate natural pearls makes this cuff a romantic jewel of profound delicacy.
Olivier Baroin
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